Holy Land
BY SHOALEH YOUNG Special to the Anderson Independent-Mail

Saturday, May 26, 2007




Can one find peace, security and beauty in a dry, desert land under constant threat of war, bombings, and unrest? If that land is the Holy Land, then — for me, at least — the answer is “yes.”
When I landed in Israel in March, a feeling of reverence came upon me as I reflected, “This is holy dust.” I felt connected with history and could imagine Abraham, Isaiah, Jacob, Jesus and Bahá’u’lláh walking there and blessing that dust with their footsteps.
My family (husband, three children, mother-in-law, sister-in-law, parents and sister) and I had embarked on a memorable and blessed 10-day trip for our Bahá’í pilgrimage. This was the fifth time in my 35 years that I was fortunate enough to return to what I feel is my spiritual home.
Israel is sacred, not only to Jews, Christians and Muslims, but also to Bahá’ís. of Haifa and Akká, two cities in northern Israel, are the places of pilgrimage for Bahá’ís. They are the spiritual and administrative heart of the Bahá’í community, known as the Bahá’í World Center.
To go on pilgrimage, we had to apply and wait about five years before receiving our invitation to come. Each year, several hundred Bahá’í pilgrims from around the world are invited, then organized into smaller groups. We visit holy places such as the Shrines of Bahá’u’lláh (prophet/founder of the Bahá’í faith), the Báb (his forerunner), and ‘Abdu’l-Bahá (his son), other holy sites where Bahá’u’lláh and ‘Abdu’l-Bahá lived and the administrative buildings on the slope of Mount Carmel, all of which are set in extensive gardens.
From ancient times, Mount Carmel has been known as the “Mountain of the Lord.” Once barren, the mountain now features 19 majestic terraced gardens that stretch from its base to the summit. The wonderful gardens surrounding the Shrine of the Báb are referred to as the eighth wonder of the world and are visited daily by hundreds of tourists.
On our first day of pilgrimage we went to the Shrine of the Báb. As we walked toward it, I remember hearing birds singing and the crunching footsteps of pilgrims on the white pebbled path, and watching my children proceed in silent reverence. We were going to pay homage to the Báb, who sacrificed his life for us, and Abdu’l-Bahá, who showed us how to live like Jesus Christ. When we reached the Shrine, we circumambulated it as a sign of reverence, then entered. I was overwhelmed with gratitude and love.
Inside the Shrine, our children sat beside us and we prayed silently. Before leaving, we kneeled at the threshold and reverently walked backwards to the door. It was so special for me, as a parent, to see my children connect with their Lord. We went to pray in the Shrines many times during the days we were there, and every time they followed the same reverent example.
In the gardens’ terraces, they behaved like fun-loving children — soaking up the beauty of nature, laughing, jumping over fountains, smelling flowers, and exercising up and down the steps. They loved that spot!
Standing on the terraces, I looked across the deep blue bay, felt the cool breeze coming from the Mediterranean Sea, and inhaled the sweet fragrance of orange blossoms. The symmetry and beauty of the terrace gardens were breathtaking. Each was perfectly groomed and featured its own color of flowers: blue; violet; red; orange; yellow; white; purple; pink. Bushes and trees were trimmed in various shapes — oval, sphere, or triangle — and the bright green grass was neatly cut along the steep mountain slopes. The peaceful sound of water cascading alongside the center stairs or from the terrace fountains drew me into a paradise environment, drowning out the background noise of busy city streets. Whether we were looking up nine terraces or down nine terraces, we could see the majestic Shrine of the Báb “robed in white and crowned in gold.”
Feeling my senses attuned in that heavenly atmosphere, I recalled the words of Bahá’u’lláh in a tablet written about Mount Carmel: “All glory be to this Day, the Day in which the fragrances of mercy have been wafted over all created things, a Day so blest that past ages and centuries can never hope to rival it, a Day in which the countenance of the Ancient of Days hath turned towards His holy seat.” As much as we loved Mount Carmel, my favorite place was the Shrine of Bahá’u’lláh, outside Akká, and its surrounding gardens. I felt truly in heaven, and we returned there as many times as our schedule allowed.
Bahá’u’lláh’s resting place is described in a book entitled “A Crown of Beauty” as a “pilgrim’s supreme bounty to approach that threshold – there to express his heart’s gratitude and praise, to offer his prayers, his pleas for strength and illumination to serve out his life in the path of that ‘Most Great Peace’ his Lord has designed for the world of humanity. It is his point of adoration, as the wall of Solomon’s Temple in Jerusalem is for the Jews, St. Peter’s in Rome for the Roman Catholics, and the Black Stone in Mecca for Muslims.”
That passage perfectly describes my prayers and the complete humility I felt as I bowed my head at the threshold. Inside the Shrine and courtyard area, the divine atmosphere was filled with sweet smells of geraniums and roses, peaceful rustling of trees, and melodious birdsongs. When I closed my eyes, my heart was filled with great tenderness, and I was transported to a loftier state. Several times I walked in the gardens alone. Surrounded by nature, with tall cypress trees securing the perimeter, flowers and ancient olive trees in the gardens, hawks flying high in the aqua blue sky, cool breezes touching my face, I sang prayers, communing with the strong angelic presence I felt there. On several days of our pilgrimage, we were bussed from Haifa to Akká to visit the places where Bahá’u’lláh and Abdu’l-Bahá stayed. Visiting that city was like stepping back in time. Akká, a fortress city flanked by the “glory of Lebanon” and lying in full view of the “splendor of Carmel” at the foot of hills which enclose the home of Jesus Christ, had been described by David as “the Strong City,” designated by Hosea as “a door of hope,” and alluded to by Ezekiel as “the gate that looketh towards the East.”
A very special part of being a pilgrim is to see things of spiritual significance. We visited the archives building where relics, authentic manuscripts and tablets and other priceless mementos are kept — including portraits of both the Báb and Bahá’u’lláh; personal relics such as the hair, dust and garments of the Báb; locks of hair from and the blood of Bahá’u’lláh; and articles such as his pen case, garments and seals. To witness those precious items is beyond words. I felt even more personally connected with my faith. How fortunate that those priceless relics have been preserved for future generations.
While we were on pilgrimage we enjoyed a Bahá’í New Year’s celebration on Naw-Ruz Holy Day, March 21. Services were held in the Seat of the Universal House of Justice, attended by approximately 300 pilgrims and 800 Bahá’ís who work at the World Center.
Especially meaningful to me on that day was remembering the stories of my great-grandfather, who had made his pilgrimage 98 years ago. On March 21, 1909, he was privileged to witness the mortal remains of the Blessed Báb being interred in the Shrine.
At the Pilgrim Reception Centers in Haifa (near the Shrine of the Báb) and Bahji (near the Shrine of Bahá’u’lláh), pilgrims gathered for socializing, meals and rest. We visited with new Bahá’í friends from around the world, including France, Ireland, Wales, Russia, Bulgaria, Ukraine, Lithuania, Georgia, Bosnia, Taiwan, Australia, New Zealand, Canada, Cameroon, India and Iran. I loved eating the freshly picked avocados and oranges available daily. The children loved to make tea with milk. We felt at home in the hospitable facilities.
Also in our pilgrimage group was a family of four from Greenville, the Nematollahis; my husband’s chiropractic school classmate, who now lives in Washington state; and a woman whose daughter lives in Anderson.
The final night of pilgrimage, while visiting with some fellow pilgrims from Australia, we discovered they were our distant cousins. How ironic, too, because I had met them on our first day of pilgrimage while registering.
Some evenings we gathered to hear inspirational talks about our purpose in life and as pilgrims, and about positive happenings in the world moving humanity toward unity. Those talks gave me confirmation to continue our neighborhood study classes and children’s virtues classes as a positive service to the community, and motivation to begin a neighborhood devotional gathering with friends of all religions praying together.
Back home in South Carolina, we often eat at the Pita House in Greenville. The owners are friends of ours and they’re from Haifa. They suggested that while we were in Haifa, we should eat at Maxim’s, a restaurant owned by friends of theirs. At Maxim’s, we were greeted with excellent service, delicious food and friendly company. The owner, Charlie, sat with us and shared the tragedy of what happened in his restaurant a few years ago. A woman suicide bomber walked in and killed about 20 people, including staff members, friends and two of his relatives. Devastated by his story, I reflected on his suffering and personal strength, the faith that gave him the fortitude to rebuild his restaurant. That resolve is indicative of the spirit of the Israeli people.
Now that we have returned from pilgrimage, I enjoy sharing pictures with friends. My children ask when they can go back to the Shrines. My answer is, “God willing, in twelve years or less.”
Until then, we can close our eyes, picture the beauty of those holy places and continue to say our daily prayers to strengthen our connection with our creator, serve others, and continue to learn the stories that are brought to life because we were in the Holy Land.
A final note: On previous visits to Israel, I was fortunate to travel to the Dead Sea, the Sea of Galilee, Bethlehem and Jerusalem. I walked along the path that Christ walked before he was crucified, saw the Dome of the Rock and the Wailing Wall, stood on Mount Olive, visited the church where Jesus gave his sermon on Mount Beatitudes, climbed Mount Masada, and visited Capernaum, Tiberius and Yad Vashem (a Holocaust museum).
Every rock, every olive tree, every grain of sand there is sacred and rich with religious significance. So if you have a dream to go to Israel, persevere in making it a reality.
Your spirit will be touched and you will be brought closer to the Lord. Holy places are undoubtedly centers of the outpouring of divine grace.
Shoaleh Young, of Easley, was raised a Baha’i and serves as treasurer of the Pickens County Spiritual Assembly of Baha’is.